Gian Paolo Barbieri, a renowned Italian fashion photographer, passed away on 17 December 2024 in Milan at the age of 89.
Born in 1935 in Milan, Barbieri’s family were fabric wholesalers, and his father owned a department store. He developed an early passion for cinema and theatre, performing in amateur dramatics during the mid-1950s. This cinematic influence later permeated his photographic style.
Barbieri’s career in photography began with an apprenticeship under Harper’s Bazaar photographer Tom Kublin. Following Kublin’s untimely death, Barbieri’s work gained recognition in Italian fashion magazines, notably Novità, which evolved into Vogue Italia in 1965. He also contributed to American and French editions of Vogue.
In 1964, Barbieri established his own studio in Milan, collaborating with leading fashion designers such as Valentino, Armani, Versace, and Ferré. His innovative approach to fashion advertising and editorial photography set new industry standards. He captured iconic images of models including Mirella Petteni, Jerry Hall, Veruschka, Monica Bellucci, and Audrey Hepburn.
Barbieri’s work was celebrated in exhibitions worldwide, including a notable event curated by David Bailey at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London. Throughout his career, he remained dedicated to analogue photography, eschewing digital retouching to preserve the authenticity of his images.
His contributions to fashion photography earned him numerous accolades, including the Biancamano Prize as Best Italian Photographer in 1968. In 1978, Stern magazine recognised him as one of the world’s top 14 fashion photographers.