On 17th September 1944, the mountaineer Reinhold Messner, was born near Bressanone, Italy. With his remarkable achievements and pioneering approach to climbing, Messner has forever changed the face of high-altitude mountaineering.
Growing up in South Tyrol, in the foothills of the Dolomites, Messner knew the mountains from a young age. His father, an avid climber, exposed him to mountaineering at just five years old. As Messner later recalled, the steep crags and towering peaks of his childhood became the perfect training ground for his future pursuits.
By the time he reached adulthood, Messner had already completed more than 500 ascents in the Alps. However, it was his groundbreaking approach to extreme altitude climbs that cemented his place in mountaineering history.
The First to Conquer All 14 Eight-Thousanders
Messner’s greatest achievement came in 1986 when he became the first person to climb all 14 of the world’s peaks over 8,000 metres – the so-called “eight-thousanders” – without the use of supplemental oxygen. This feat, long considered impossible, set a new standard for mountaineering and showcased Messner’s commitment to what he called “alpine style” climbing. Unlike the heavily supported expeditions of the past, Messner embraced a minimalist approach, relying only on himself and a small team, with no fixed ropes or large support crews.
His solo ascent of Mount Everest in 1980, without supplementary oxygen, remains one of the most significant moments in mountaineering history. With no one to assist or encourage him, Messner battled extreme cold, fatigue, and oxygen deprivation to become the first person to accomplish such a feat.
Tragedy and Triumph
While Messner’s career has been marked by extraordinary successes, it has not been without tragedy. In 1970, during an ascent of Nanga Parbat with his younger brother Günther, disaster struck. After reaching the summit, the brothers were forced to descend by a new, unplanned route due to Günther’s deteriorating condition. Günther was swept away by an avalanche, and Messner barely survived, suffering frostbite and the loss of several toes.
The incident led to years of controversy and accusations, but Messner remained resolute in his story. Decades later, Günther’s remains were found on the mountain, vindicating Messner’s account of the tragic events.
Beyond the Peaks
Messner’s achievements extend beyond mountaineering. After his Himalayan conquests, he turned his focus to polar exploration, trekking across Antarctica, Greenland, and the Gobi Desert on foot. His thirst for adventure and his desire to push human limits have led him to write numerous books, deliver lectures, and open a series of museums in South Tyrol dedicated to mountain culture and history.
Messner has been a vocal advocate for preserving mountain environments and indigenous cultures that are under threat from climate change and modern development. From 1999 to 2004, Messner served as a member of the European Parliament for north-east Italy, as a member of the Federation of the Greens.
Legacy of a Legend
At 80 years old, Reinhold Messner remains an icon in the world of mountaineering and exploration. His determination, resilience, and refusal to accept limits have inspired countless climbers and adventurers to pursue their dreams in the harshest environments on Earth.
From the Dolomites to the Himalayas, Messner’s name is synonymous with pushing the boundaries of what is possible, and his legacy continues to shape the future of mountaineering and adventure.
Recommended Reading
Reinhold Messner: My Life at the Limit, the newest book by the famed mountaineer, is a conversation between Messner and interviewer Thomas Hüetlin, an award-winning German journalist.
It reveals a more thoughtful and conversational Messner than one finds in his previous books, with the “talk” between Messner and Hüetlin covering not only the highlights of Messner’s climbing career, but also his treks across Tibet, the Gobi, and Antarctica; his five-year-stint as a member of the European Parliament; his encounter with and study of the yeti; his thoughts on traditional male/female roles; and much more.
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