In a European first, Italian regulators have raided LVMH offices over accusations that its beauty brands – Sephora and Benefit – used child micro-influencers to push anti-ageing creams and serums on children as young as ten.
Italy’s competition watchdog has launched a landmark investigation into luxury goods giant LVMH and two of its most prominent beauty brands — Sephora and Benefit Cosmetics — over allegations that they deployed a “particularly insidious” marketing strategy to sell adult skincare products to children, including those under the age of ten.
The Italian Competition Authority (AGCM) said it was the first European regulator to formally open an investigation into concerns that LVMH-owned brands were using very young micro-influencers on social media to promote premature use of adult cosmetics. The probe centres on what authorities describe as possible unfair commercial practices linked to the aggressive promotion of face masks, serums and anti-ageing creams to minors.
Raids and Investigations
AGCM officials and Italy’s financial police carried out inspections of the premises of Sephora Italia, LVMH Profumi e Cosmetici Italia and LVMH Italia on Thursday as part of the investigation. The companies could face substantial fines if found to have breached consumer protection regulations.
The AGCM said the investigations centred on possible unfair commercial practices linked to the premature use of adult cosmetics among children and adolescents, including those under the age of ten to twelve, by encouraging compulsive purchase of face masks, serums and anti-ageing creams. These practices are linked to the broader issue of “cosmeticorexia” — an obsession with skincare among minors.
The authority is particularly concerned that the brands involved very young micro-influencers who encouraged young people to compulsively purchase cosmetics. Micro-influencers, those with online followings typically in the thousands, are considered especially effective at reaching younger, peer-influenced audiences.
The AGCM also raised concerns that important information, including warnings and precautions for cosmetics not intended for, or tested on, minors, may have been omitted or presented in a misleading manner. Those concerns covered both online and in Sephora stores, particularly in relation to the Sephora Collection and Benefit Cosmetics lines.
The “Sephora Kids” phenomenon
The investigation arrives amid a well-documented social media trend that has alarmed parents, dermatologists and regulators alike. The inquiry highlights rising regulatory attention on the “Sephora Kids” phenomenon, where children post videos of themselves mixing products into cosmetic “smoothies,” documenting elaborate skincare routines, or showcasing large shopping “hauls” from Sephora stores.
The “Haul from Sephora for Kids” tag on TikTok alone features hundreds of videos of children as young as five buying make-up and skincare products in Sephora stores. With Sephora boasting nearly 23 million followers on Instagram and over two million on TikTok, the brand is deeply embedded in the online beauty culture consumed by minors.
Some countries have already moved to address the trend. In Sweden, several beauty companies introduced age restrictions for advanced skincare products that contain active ingredients such as alpha-hydroxy acid and beta-hydroxy acid. Gulf News Italy’s probe now signals that formal regulatory enforcement may be next.
Health Experts warn of real risks
Medical professionals have been unequivocal about the dangers of adult cosmetics being used by children. Stephanie Mallet, president of the French Society for Paediatric Dermatology, called the investigation “important.” “It’s not normal to allow something that has no benefit for the child and can even be risky for profit,” she said, adding: “A child’s skin doesn’t need anything. It’s neither too dry, nor too oily, nor too red, nor too wrinkled. It absolutely doesn’t need anything other than washing with water and a gentle cleanser.”
Both the AGCM and the British Association of Dermatologists have warned that skincare products can be harmful to children, potentially causing irritation, allergic reactions and, in some cases, permanent skin problems.
LVMH Responds
In a statement, LVMH confirmed that Sephora, Benefit and LVMH P&C Italy had been notified of the investigative procedure. The group said the companies would “fully co-operate” with the authorities but declined to comment further while the probe remains ongoing, stating that all companies “reaffirm their strict compliance with applicable Italian regulations.”
