The image of a gondola gliding gracefully through the canals of Venice, steered by a gondolier in a striped shirt and straw hat, is one of the most iconic and enduring symbols of Italy. The profession of the gondolier is not just a job; it is a revered tradition passed down through generations, deeply intertwined with the history and culture of Venice.
Gondoliers are the custodians of a craft that dates back centuries, navigating the intricate waterways of one of the world’s most famous cities.
History of the Gondola and Gondolier
The gondola, a flat-bottomed boat designed specifically for the shallow and narrow canals of Venice, has been a part of the city’s landscape since at least the 11th century. Originally used as a practical means of transportation for Venetians, the gondola evolved into a status symbol for the city’s wealthiest families. By the 16th century, Venice was home to thousands of gondolas, each meticulously crafted and ornately decorated.
The profession of the gondolier has always been highly respected. Gondoliers were not just boatmen; they were also trusted confidants and knowledgeable guides who navigated the city’s canals with skill and precision. In the past, gondoliers were often in the service of noble families. The profession passed down from father to son, ensuring the knowledge and techniques remained within the family.
Becoming a Gondolier
Becoming a gondolier today is no easy feat. The profession is highly regulated. The city of Venice only issues a limited number of licenses, known as “concorsi”. Aspiring gondoliers must undergo rigorous training that includes mastering the unique rowing technique, learning about Venetian history and culture, and even passing a language test.
The rowing technique used by gondoliers, known as “voga alla veneta,” is distinctive. Gondoliers row standing up and facing forward, using a single oar that rests in a special wooden fork called a “forcola.” The oar is not attached to the boat. This allows for the subtle movements needed to navigate Venice’s tight and winding canals. This method of rowing requires strength, balance, and a deep understanding of the currents and tides of the Venetian lagoon.
The Role of the Gondolier Today
In modern times, the role of the gondolier has shifted from practical transportation to a more touristic function. Gondolas are now primarily a way to offer visitors a romantic and picturesque way to experience Venice. A gondola ride allows tourists to see the city from a unique perspective, passing under its historic bridges, alongside centuries-old palaces, and through quiet, lesser-known waterways.
Despite the changes, gondoliers remain an integral part of Venetian culture. Visitors and Venetians alike view them as ambassadors of the city, sharing their knowledge of Venice’s history, architecture, and legends with passengers. The traditional striped shirt and straw hat worn by gondoliers are instantly recognisable and have become part of the romantic allure of Venice.
However, the life of a gondolier is not without challenges. The profession requires physical stamina, as gondoliers often work long hours in the heat of summer or the chill of winter. The competition for licenses is fierce, and the costs associated with maintaining a gondola, including repairs and mooring fees, can be substantial.
Furthermore, the gondoliers must navigate the challenges posed by the modern world, including the influx of mass tourism and the environmental pressures on Venice’s delicate ecosystem.
Women in the Gondolier Profession
For centuries, the profession of gondolier was exclusively male. However, in recent years, this has begun to change.
In 2010, Venice welcomed its first licensed female gondolier, Giorgia Boscolo, breaking the centuries-old gender barrier. Since then, more women have entered the profession, although they remain a small minority. The inclusion of women in this traditional role marks a significant shift in the profession’s history.
The Gondola as a Symbol of Venice
The gondola itself is a work of art, crafted with precision and care. Each gondola consists of eight different types of wood and takes several months to complete. The boats are asymmetrical, with one side longer than the other, to counterbalance the weight of the gondolier. The sleek black colour of the gondola, mandated by a 17th-century sumptuary law, adds to its elegance and mystique.
The gondola is also rich in symbolism. The iron prow, or “fero,” at the front of the boat, shaped like an “S,” represents the twists and turns of the Grand Canal, while the six teeth below symbolise Venice’s six districts, or “sestieri.” The small curve above the teeth represents the Doge’s hat, a nod to Venice’s historical leadership.
A singing Gondolier
If your gondolier starts singing whilst he rows you and your loved one through the canals, it may be this refrain you hear:
“Mi son el gondolier
che in gondola te ninòa,
se el remo in forcòla sigòa,
coverze el scìoco dei basi (…)”
“I am the gondolier /who cradles you in my gondola/if the oar in its oarlock squeaks/it masks the smack of your kisses (…)”.
In this, as in many other barcarole, the popular songs that accompanied gondola rides in the eighteenth century, the gondolier is depicted as a skilled boatsman, a comforting presence, and a discreet, trusted companion. Noone was going to learn about your kisses from them!
The profession of the gondolier is a living tradition that continues to be an essential part of Venice’s identity. Gondoliers are more than just boatmen; they are the keepers of a unique cultural heritage, embodying the spirit of Venice with every stroke of their oar. As they navigate the city’s canals, they carry with them the stories, traditions, and pride of a city that has captivated the world’s imagination for centuries.
