After facing scrutiny in France, Chinese-founded e-commerce giant Shein is now meeting opposition in Italy. The company is expanding operations in Milan — the centre of Italian fashion. While consumers have embraced the platform’s low-cost clothing, industry leaders and the government warn that “ultra-fast fashion” threatens Italy’s textile sector.
“The textile sector is under attack,” said Luca Sburlati, head of Confindustria Moda, the national fashion trade association. “Hundreds of thousands of packages arrive in our homes every day. We must react.”
Italy’s fashion industry, home to global brands such as Gucci and Prada, represents around five percent of national GDP. Yet, like elsewhere in Europe, demand for cheap clothing is rising. Shein, now based in Singapore, staged its first Italian catwalk show in Milan last month — the same week the government held emergency talks on the impact of low-cost imports.
Adolfo Urso, Italy’s Minister for the “Made in Italy” brand, warned of “an invasion of low-cost foreign products that harm our producers and put consumers at risk.” The industry plans to present a new strategy next week aimed at protecting Italian fashion from growing competition.
At the European level, trade bodies are pushing to end the customs exemption for imported packages worth under €150, arguing it gives online retailers like Shein an unfair advantage. The United States already applies duties to all imports.
Environmental and ethical issues around fast fashion
Critics also highlight the environmental and ethical issues linked to ultra-fast fashion, including poor working conditions and disposable clothing habits. Shein has previously faced sanctions in both Italy and France for lacking transparency on environmental impact.
Read: Italy fines Shein €1million over misleading green claims
Despite the criticism, Shein continues to attract large crowds. In Paris, almost 8,000 people queued for the opening of its first permanent store, while Milan’s younger shoppers have shown strong enthusiasm.
At the Milan fashion show, Shein’s artistic director Luca Raveillon said the aim was to prove that “everyone can find their style at Shein.” The collection, inspired by 1980s Milan, featured three-piece suits and faux fur coats, including a 100% polyester design available online in 15 colours for €28 with free shipping.
Shein’s model of fast, affordable fashion has helped boost clothing consumption across Europe. According to a report by consultants The European House–Ambrosetti, Europeans now buy 60% more clothing than they did in 2000 and keep it for half as long.
Report author Carlo Cici said Europe’s fashion industry must innovate to compete. “Consumers are very interested in sustainability,” he wrote, “but aren’t willing to pay for it.”
