Siena Palio - image shows the horses racing in the Palio from 2006. A grey horse is narrowlung in front

A riderless horse wins the Siena Palio

By Region Central Italy Culture News

A ‘scosso’ – riderless horse – from the Oca (Goose) contrada won the Siena Palio devoted to Our Lady of the Assumption last night. It was the historic district’s second win in the iconic medieval bareback race since July last year.

The Palio in Siena is different to standard horse races in that a horse which has lost its jockey can still win. It is the horse, not the rider that matters. The bay gelding, Zio Frac, dehorsed its jockey Carlo Sanna aka Brigante halfway through the race.

Oca took the lead after the Giraffa and the Pantera fell, and held on after a later fall of its chief enemy, the Torre. Several horses ended the race without their riders.

The July 2nd  Palio was won by the Selva (Forest) with famed jockey Giovanni Atzeni aka Tittia leading from start to finish to claim his record fifth straight laurel and the 10th in his career. Tittia was also leading for much of Wednesday’s race.

Read: Best cathedrals in Italy

History of the Siena Palio

The Palio, meaning “banner”, dates back to the 1100s. It was run to celebrate Saint Boniface to whom the first cathedral in the city was dedicated.  

Initially, the race was run along the external roads which led to the city centre. In the 17th century, the race moved to the Piazza del Campo.

There are three laps around the square which lasts about 90 seconds, and the race is competed by the 17 contrada or districts.

Each contrada has a church, a fountain in which children are ‘baptised’ into the contrada, a stable for the horses, social club and a museum to preserve the local history of the contrada. With any luck, the museum will be filled with banners won at the Palio.

Flags of the Siena contrade
Flags of the 17 contrade, or districts, of Siena

10 of the 17 contrade run in the two races each year – 2nd July Madonna di Provenzano and 16th August Madonna di duomo. Six trials whittle down the number of contrade before the main races.

The horse which will run the race is chosen the the drawing of lots. Divine intervention is sought, by taking to horse to the contrada’s church to be blessed. The horse with the most wins – 8 in total – ran from 1973 to 1983.

The jockey is a professional paid by the contrada. Whether he remains seated is irrelevant, it is the horse which wins the race, not the rider.

The trophy is a palio, a large painted silk cloth banner, often decorated by famous painters.

A rather violent race

The only rule in the competition is that the jockeys, or fantini, mustn’t grab the reins of their adversaries. That means whipping a rival’s horse or even knocking a jockey off his steed is allowed.   

The chaotic race in Siena’s main square attracts thousands of visitors each year who are mostly oblivious to the punishment the horses take. However, animal rights activists have long campaigned to get the event banned, saying it is cruel, has little to do with sporting skill and is dangerous for the horses, jockeys and spectators.

More than 50 horses have died on the course since 1970.

Seeking UNESCO status

The Palio is one of Italy’s most colourful tourist attractions, though this year Mayor Nicoletta Fabio caused a stir by claiming the storied event “is not a tourist attraction and never will be”. How the Tourism Minister Daniela Santanchè who was present felt about that, who knows.

Meanwhile, Tuscany Governor Eugenio Giani said he would continue to push for it to be granted UNESCO status.

Leave a Reply